There are two ways known to me, how to construct a hauberk with an attached coif, that has rows running around the sleeves. The first type is what I found on mail garments of other mail makers. I call it the 90°-pattern. A piece for the chest is connected to a piece for the belly and to pieces for the arms. The arms are connected seamless to the chest-piece, but there is also a small 90°-seam, where they connect to the belly-piece. Unfortunately tensions tend to concentrate at the point, where this seam beginns.
Therefore I developed another version. I call it the segmented pattern. In this construction two segments are added to the frontside of each armpit and another two at the backside. This results in less noticeable seams. Even the 90°-seam inbetween the segments is less noticeable than the 90°-seam in the 90°-pattern. It is because the segmentes are orientated in a 45° angle towards the seamline. For the 90°-seam-construction there is a 90° angle of the sleeves towards the seamline, wherease the angle between chest-piece and seamline is 0°.
The figures show just the front parts of each version. They are connected to similar back parts at the black lines. The back parts look almost the same, yet there is a difference in expansion-rings on shoulders, belly and hips. The coif is an exception. There’s just a hole for the face on the front side. A flap for the face is not depicted due to clarity reasons.